Click on the following title to read more about that
adventure:
NEW! The Lonely
Castle of Monte Reale
Documenting the Quest for Spanish Treasure:
A Day in the Making of "Ghosts, Galleons, and Gold"
Wings of Adventure: The Skies
of Rhinebeck
The Quest for La Caverna Del Oro
Petroglyphs of the High
Plains: Secrets in Stone
The Lonely Castle of Monte Reale
by Mike Olafson
Copyright 2005 Vintage Adventure, LLC
The silent stone walls of Monte Reale Castle stood
before me. The only sound I heard was that of the Arabian winds whistling
briskly through ancient ramparts of the desolate ruin. I first saw the
fortress earlier from a nearby hill- it still presented an impressive
profile after nearly 900 years. It looked much like the photo I first saw
of it in archaeologist G. Lankester Harding’s 1959 book The Antiquities
of Jordan. In April of 2005, I had traveled to the mysterious land of
Jordan to study these ruins, and many others, with my own eyes, and the lens
of my video camera, for an upcoming episode of Vintage Adventure.
Led by my friend, Sufyan Al
Twaissi, a tour guide of Bedouin heritage, and with my friend, a guard and
driver for the Royal Palace named Raid Dusalhf, we entered the castle and
began to climb about its ancient courtyards and walls. No other tourists
were there- the only other people we saw were a caretaker at the gate, and a
merchant, who, with his 2 sons, ran a unique shop of antiques and rare goods
from his tattered tent on the perimeter of the castle grounds.
I stepped over blocks of
crumbled stone scattered haphazardly about. The place was just as I had
hoped- lonely and forgotten. There is something I have always found
fascinating in ancient ruins- in some ways, they are like living creatures.
There are those who will say that this castle, or for that matter, any lost
ruin, is ‘dead’. Yet I beg to differ. In looking at these crumbling walls,
I am connected to its present state of being- much like an old man whose
past was long, long ago- yet, with a frail voice, he can still tell me about
his life - face to face. It seems to me that until a ruin is restored- or
given a second life- its original life continues on. In plodding about
these dilapidated walls, overgrown courtyards, and stairways that still
descended into darkness, I felt closer to the castle’s living past.
Below: Shobak Castle as photographed in 1950s by G.
Lankester Harding.. 
We continued our walk amongst
the scattered, chiseled blocks of stones and open chasms, as if we were the
first to explore the surface of Mars. We moved slowly, taking it all in.
Finally, when we reached a high ledge we looked about. The view was very
impressive, and I was informed by Sufyan that from such a vantage point,
sentries could monitor all traffic throughout the land for miles and miles.
I could only imagine what this outpost was like centuries ago when teams of
camel caravans would arrive to ply their wares. I knew that the ancient
merchant caravans usually traveled under the cool night sky, preferring to
rest and conserve energy during the day. But I’d like to imagine that some
of these caravans found business brisk in this old castle, and may have
stayed for a few nights at least, to share food, drink, and smoke and speak
of other lands and places by firelight under the Arabian stars
Photo below: Same view taken by Mike Olafson, 2005.
Not much
has changed.
.
Rudyard Kipling once commented that, “To truly
experience a country, you must smell it.” I truly believe that. During my
visit to Jordan, I experienced the spicy, apple scents of tobacco pipes, the
musky odor of camel hair and blankets, the sheepskin leather of Bedouin
dagger grips, the aroma of hot mint tea, and the dry, clean air of the
deserts of Arabia. And though the campfires of those ancient and dusty
merchants have long expired, I can imagine the rich flavors in the air
during those evenings of moonlight gatherings.
The castle of Monte Reale was
built in the 12th century, by the Crusaders, near the city of
Shobak. It’s main purpose was to monitor and protect the traffic of
caravans and armies along the well known ‘Kings Highway’, which ran from
Damascus in Syria, all the way to Egypt- with other connections branching
out East to ancient Mesopotamia, South towards Mecca, in Southern Arabia,
and Northeast towards ancient Anatolia- known today as Turkey. According to
Harding, the castle was built in 1115 by Baldwin I, the crusader King of
Jerusalem. However, my guide Sufyan believes it to have been constructed in
approximately 1185. Regardless, they both agree that it was captured by the
great Arab leader Salahdin in 1189. Because of this conquest, it lost its
Crusader name and is now commonly referred to as Shobak Castle. A short
mention of this conquest is told by author Amin Maalouf in his fascinating
1992 book The Crusades Through Arab Eyes.
After the dust of the
Crusader-Arab battles, the castle was partially rebuilt in the fourteenth
century by the Mamelukes- a dynasty descended from slave warriors and
commanders, often of Turkish or Circassian origin. They rebelled against
their leaders and gained independence. They were a robust lot, and, using
the castle as one of their many fortifications, protected the land from the
invading Mongols led by Gengis Khan’s grandson Hulagi.
Harding’s comments about the
castle are interesting, for it appears that, when he visited the
ruins-probably during the 1940s or 1950s- there was actually a modern
village within. He says, “ From the distance, it (the castle) is very
impressive, but hardly repays a closer view….The circle of the walls and a
gateway are complete, but within is only the modern village, the sole
remains being a great rock cut well shaft with 375 steps leading down to an
underground water supply. The descent is slippery and hazardous in the
extreme, and how the ancient excavators knew they would reach water at the
bottom is a mystery.”
During my visit, I found no
modern village- only ruins. Sufyan told me that in the 1980s, what few
villagers had still been living in and around the castle were moved out by
the government to a modern housing project. But Sufyan and I did manage to
find the well shaft mentioned by Harding. We descended into its depths for a
short distance- but did not get far as our only source of light was a few
matches which Sufyan had. I had to disagree with Harding however- perhaps
from his perspective of an archaeologist who had studied much and seen so
many ruins of the past, he felt it was marginally exciting. I found it to
be very interesting and could have spent another few days examining the
ruins.
As we explored the castle
further, Sufyan discovered a room that contained various sizes of carved
round stones- approximately the size of bowling balls.
“Look here Michael, (he always
called me by my proper Christian name-never just ‘Mike’) Do you see those?
Old cannon balls,” he added. We searched the room further and found many
old capitals of columns and other stones used in construction that had
ancient symbols carved in them.
“Michael. These are Aramaic
inscriptions- a language older than Arabic.” These inscriptions were found
throughout other columns and stones on the castle grounds and were added
after the castle was conquered by the Arabs. Sufyan deciphered some of
them. They generally spoke of one god, Allah, and told of battles and
leaders that had lived and fought here in the castle, centuries past. It was
like reading a guest list carved in stone from ages past. I wondered how
many dramas and adventures had unfolded here which history had forgotten.
Was there ever a glorious Queen who held court here, inspiring the citizens
with her beauty and virtue? Was there ever a great King, his name long
since lost in time, who led armies into battle and was a feared a respected
ruler throughout the land? If so, it seemed sad that the only surviving
remnant to describe those days of glory was a few stone tablets left to
slowly crumble into the sand. What stories these old stones could tell.
I found a room of the castle
which I guessed to be a kitchen of some kind. It appeared to have a hearth
and various ‘sinks’ carved from stones. I noted irrigation channels still
carved in the stone floor inside and outside, along the streets as well.
How many delectable feast for Kings, soldiers, and merchants had been
prepared there? What exotic fruits and wines had it's stores supplied? 
As the sun went down over
hills to the west, I caught a beautiful silhouette of one of the towers
against a twilight blue sky. While shooting some footage and taking some
pictures, I heard the sounds of the Imam bellowing out the twilight prayer
chants from small villages miles away. I realized that those sounds have
been heard here for centuries and again, I was taken back into time.
As darkness and the
temperature descended, Sufyan decided to speak with the sole merchant before
we left. We went inside the tent where he and his sons were huddled around
an antique kerosene heater, and they were inspecting what appeared to be a
WWI era rifle, “Made by Germans” they claimed. Sufyan told me that, if it
was authentic, it most likely was used by some Bedouin nomad in this
region. The old merchant was very friendly, and spoke in broken English to
me. One of his sons poured me a cup of tea, the Arab custom when receiving
a houseguest, and I gladly sipped the hot and tasty drink, while huddling
around the heater and looking at pictures of cultural icons of the West as
well as those of the Middle East which all hung upon the walls of his tent.
I felt connected to the past again, and had become a tiny sliver of the long
history of the castle as I continued a tradition that reached back for ages.
I became a member of an ancient club of traders, desert nomads, and
travelers who, through centuries have all gathered here to receive
protection, exchange news of other lands, make new acquaintances, and renew
old ties of fellowship.
As the winds outside rattled
the walls of the tent, the old merchant produced a beautiful and ancient
Bedouin dagger, which Sufyan became very interested in. I noticed the blade
gleamed brightly- even in the dim light of the lantern lit tent. He then
showed me a tray of jewelry and other trinkets he was selling. I noticed
something interesting in his tray and pointed to it. He picked it up.
“Roman coin,” he said. I
could not believe my eyes. While I know they are quite common, I had never
seen one before and could not contain my enthusiasm. It was in excellent
condition-a reminder of the Roman occupation of this land for many
centuries. Sensing my interest, the old man showed me another coin.
“Arabic,” he said. And then,
he produced another, even more antiquated one. “Nabatean.” The coin he held
in his hand could have been over 2000 years old.
After another cup of tea and
more conversation, the old merchant decided to give me the coins he had
shown me, and invited me to stay longer with him next time. I later learned
that another Arab custom is to give something to a guest (within reason) if
they express a genuine interest in it. Had I known this, I would have
tried to contain my enthusiasm for his coins. In exchange, I gave him the
only thing I had- some baseball caps with my Vintage Adventure
documentary series logo on them- which he gladly accepted. They were hardly
the equivalent of the coins but since I noticed he was wearing an American
Air Force baseball cap, I thought he might be able to use them.
Sufyan decided to purchase the
old dagger as well, and was very happy with his purchase. He invited me to
smell the handle of the dagger. It smelled rather musky, like animal skins.
He showed me the strip of dried sheepskin that had been set between the two
sides of the carved bone handle.
“That means it’s genuine. And
look at the inscriptions on the blade and on the silver sheath. Very fine
work,” he added.
I noticed there were also
several small circles cut into the handle. It wasn’t until much later after
returning home, when, driven by curiosity, I researched their meaning. I
learned they are sacred Arab symbols that prevent the blade from being used
for evil purposes. It made me wonder how old the dagger was, and who had
used it. No one in the tent that night knew. But Sufyan was truly very
happy with his purchase and I could see he cherished this genuine artifact
from his own heritage.
After our visit, bartering
session, and tea, we walked outside to leave and I looked up into an
incredible sky full of stars. I felt as though I should be gathering the
reigns of my camel, check its rough, wool blankets, tighten my falcon-tailed
turban headdress, adjust the dagger held tight by my sash, and ride off into
the Arabian night. I thought about the rugged nature of the land and the
men who lived here ages past. Even now, centuries after its prime, I
witnessed timeless ramparts, old cannonballs, Arab merchants with rifles,
Bedouin daggers, and old coins. I wanted to stay and light a campfire,
smoke an Arab pipe, and listen for the ghosts of caravans still treading
across the sands- reminiscent of the American cowboy song, “Ghost Riders in
the Sky”. But, our team had other places to be, for we were due to film in
Petra the next morning, and had to be on our way. We left our friends and
the quiet castle just as we had found it- silent, rugged, and still attached
to its past- much like the people and the land itself, in this corner of
majestic and mysterious Arabia.
An interesting epilogue to
this tale which illustrates the giving and generous nature of the people of
Jordan: After returning home to the USA, I went shopping for a birthday
present for my father. I suddenly kicked myself when I remembered that my
father collected old knives, and what a wonderful gift a Bedouin dagger
would have made! I emailed Sufyan. Though he is of Bedouin descent, he
currently lives and works as a tour guide in the city of Amman. I asked him
if he could go to a market near his home and find a blade that he thought
was suitable and “looked good”, and then mail it to me, and I would
reimburse him. I told him it did not need to be anywhere near as authentic
or genuine as the one he found at the castle.
He emailed me back a few weeks
later with a message that he had found a dagger and it was on its way to
me. I soon received the package- you can guess what was inside: His prized
and genuine Bedouin dagger from the lonely castle of Monte Reale.
Documenting The Quest for Spanish Treasure:
A Day in the Making of ‘Ghosts, Galleons, and Gold’
by Mike Olafson
Copyright 2004 Vintage Adventure, LLC
On board the research vessel Deep Venture, I gazed out over the
azure waters of the Florida Keys.
Photo: Courtesy of HRD, Inc.
The captain, marine archaeologist Robert Westrick, maneuvered the ship
capably through the gentle swells on this calm day in June. We were en route
to the final resting place of El Infante- a Spanish treasure galleon
that sunk, along with 20 other ships in the same
fleet in these waters during a hurricane in 1733. I looked at my assistant
Mike Rich- a local diver from Miami and I could see the excitement on his
face. We would be shooting footage for the episode on the quest for lost
Spanish treasures of the 1715 and 1733 fleets. The company I had approached
last year to work with was Historical Research Development, Inc.(
www.hrd1715.com ) They specialize in
marine research and recovery of Spanish artifacts and treasures, and had
agreed to allow me to document their activities during the 2004 season for
my program.
Historical Research Development, Inc, (HRD, Inc.) led by Directors Ernie
Kling and Demosthenes ‘Mo’ Molinar (of ‘Atocha’ discovery fame) has been
pursuing the wrecks of Spanish galleons off the Florida coast since its
formation in 1988. They have had some very good years of finds with the
recovery of 238 gold doubloons one year and 821 gold coins in the very next
year. During another season they recovered approximately 7,000 silver reales,
or "pieces-of-eight".
It may seem tempting with finds like this for the average person to
simply go out to the wrecks, find the gold, and take it home- well, first of
all it is NEVER that easy.
Photo: Courtesy of HRD, Inc.
Secondly, an underwater salvage/recovery operation requires a lease,
permits, and other authorizations- all of which HRD, Inc has secured in
selected sites in the Keys and along the eastern coast of Florida. The
addition of Robert Westrick, a marine archaeologist, makes sure the work is
done without compromising archaeological standards. The business of treasure
hunting and underwater research is taken very seriously by the State of
Florida as well as by the legitimate operators that are actively working
wreck sites. (Some books listed at the end of this report will help to
introduce the reader to these guidelines.)
During our trip today, I hoped to record a new find for the documentary
program-any artifact at all, not necessarily gold coins. Though the wreck of
the Infante had been salvaged originally by the Spanish themselves
shortly after it wrecked, their primitive methods were only able to extract
the silver that was on board. The ships manifest indicated that there were
other artifacts besides the silver. But also the wreck had been
‘re-discovered’ in the 1940s by the grandfather of Florida treasure diving,
Art McKee, and since then it has been one of the more visited wreck sites in
the keys. So the chances of making that "big find" were slim but that didn’t
curb my enthusiasm.
I was happy just to get in the water, check out my new equipment and
underwater camera housing, and actually SEE a wreck- or at least the bones
of one. As I watched the waves roll by the boat, Mike and I prepped the
cameras and I realized that every day is a new day in the search for
treasure- a new day to find a coin that a previous diver may have
overlooked, a new day to find an artifact that a storm or recent hurricane
may have uncovered. Today was a new day.
We stopped the boat to let one of the divers, Bob Garrity, get in the
water with his mask, fins, and snorkel and take a ride on the ‘sled’- a
board with handles that is pulled behind the boat, allowing the user to gaze
downward into the blue depths to find the site of the wreck.
I had prepared myself with as many books on the subject of sunken
galleons as I could find in my landlocked home of Colorado. I purchased
‘Salvaging Spanish Sunken Treasure’ and ‘Famous Shipwrecks of the Florida
Keys’, both by Bob ‘Frogfoot’ Weller. (whom I would be fortunate enough to
interview later for this production) I knew from reading these that I was
not going to dive into the water and find an intact galleon with a hole in
its hull and gold coins piling out- all guarded by a skeleton still grasping
a sword. I knew that the first thing to look for would be the ballast pile-
a grouping of rocks that were actually used as ballast in the ship. After
the ship found its final resting place, the wood slowly deteriorated, or was
eaten by Teredo worms, so that the ballast pile remained- usually still
preserving the outline of the shape of the hull. It was this ballast pile of
the El Infante that Bob Garrity was looking for.
It did not take long to find the wreck once Bob got in the water that
day. The waters were clear and the temperature was perfect. As the other
diver, Bill Bolander set the anchors, Mike and I prepared our equipment.
Although, with all the rolling we were going through in setting the anchor,
I took a short break to get sick over the side of the boat and feed some
fish. Since then, the motion sickness pill ‘Bonine’ has become my trusted
friend! After I recovered, I asked Rob if he planned on using the ‘blowers’
or sometimes called ‘Mailboxes’ today. He said not at this site, but later
we would probably use them on the Capitana, another wreck in the 1733
fleet. These ‘blowers’ are tremendously effective devices that redirect the
propwash of the boat downward to "blow" away sand and debris, thereby
uncovering what is hoped to be the treasure below. But that would wait for
another day. With cameras rolling, we shot the team, led by Rob getting in
the water, and then I jumped in while Mike worked a camera topside.
The water was perfect! I had never dived in the Keys before. My time
underwater during the past 9 years had all been spent off the islands of the
Bahamas, but the clarity today was comparable to a great day off the waters
of Nassau. Adjusting the camera settings, I worked my way to the bottom at
about 30 feet, and then began to look for the wreck. I had lost Rob, Bill
and Bob as they had swam ahead of me, so I decided to swim in the direction
I last saw them.
I swam for about 5 minutes, alone, not sure I was heading in the right
direction. (Yes, alone- certainly not recommended as a rule, but in the
business of both treasure hunting as
Timbers of the El Infante
well as documentary production, you often don’t have the luxury of a full
support team everywhere you go.) I finally saw the marker buoy Bob had
dropped when he found the wreck and knew I was close. I still saw no other
divers, but suddenly, there, just below me, poking out from spits of sand,
were the timbers of the El Infante. I had found it.
The first time a diver finds a wreck, even if it has been discovered
already and visited thousands of times by others, it is a real thrill.
Floating there, capturing the images with my camera, I was transported to
the past and thought of the men who had built this ship, the sailors who
sailed her, the treasures it transported from Havana and the new world, and
how it met its demise here.
Originally christened Nuestra Senora de Balveneda, she was built
in 1724 in Genoa, Italy and was intended to be used as a merchant supply
vessel. We are not sure how she got the nickname, ‘El Infante’ but
regardless it was with her during most of her career.
I found Rob, Bill, and Bob all actively examining the site, and captured
all of them on camera. While shooting Bill, another participant felt he
needed a close up shot- a fair sized barracuda swam right in front of the
camera, looking curiously at the lens housing. ( I think he liked the way it
was shining) But he soon departed and our examination of the wreck
continued. I got some great footage of the team working and before I knew
it, we were all climbing on board the Deep Venture. Rob had a mesh bag, and
I knew he probably had some finds in it.
As I broke down my gear and changed tanks in anticipation of another
dive, I became very excited at the prospect of seeing many more wrecks
during my time with HRD, Inc. We would be making more dives in the keys, and
also moving up to the Ft. Pierce area, to dive on a site which HRD, Inc has
a lease to work. On THAT site, they believe, still lies one, maybe two, of
the undiscovered wrecks from the 1715 fleet. They have already found a
cannon, coins, and artifacts- the ballast pile has yet to be found, but it
appears they are close. Could this be the season? To be continued in part
II…..
Oh- what did Rob have in his mesh bag? Sorry- but you’ll have to watch
the episode of Vintage Adventure to find out! Also, see our
‘Documentary’ page for more details about what will be in the episode!
Here’s a peek: wonderful diving at wreck sites, with a great explanation and
history of the sites by Rob Westrick, visits to treasure museums and
interviews of local beach hunters and their finds, a fascinating account of
these fleets and early salvage attempts by first the Spanish and modern day
salvors, and interviews of people that are either part of the HRD, Inc. team
or have worked closely with members from the company. Some of these names
you will no doubt recognize:
Sir Robert Marx: Underwater archaeologist, world explorer and
adventurer, and author of over 60 books!
Bob "Frogfoot" Weller: Well known diving figure who has dived on
every known wreck of both the 1733 and 1715 fleets. Author of 7 excellent
books about treasure hunting- its history, and how to do it!
"Mo" Molinar: Co-Director of HRD, Inc. with Ernie Kling. Mo worked
with Mel Fisher from their early beginnings in California. He is the man
many say was the one to have FOUND the Atocha, while working for Mel
Fisher. Owner of the boat Virg-a-lona the most famous treasure
hunting boat in the world! (and yes we get a tour!)
From Left, Bob "Frogfoot" Weller, Mike Olafson, Rob Westrick
All this- and more!
All text and photos Copyright Vintage Adventure, LLC, 2004, except where
noted otherwise. Any reproduction or facsimile is unauthorized without
permission from Vintage Adventure, LLC.
List of Good Books:
Budde-Jones, Capt. Kathryn. Coins of the Lost Galleons. Kissimmee,
Florida: K. Budde-Jones. 1989. Second Edition 1993.
Meylach, Martin and Whited, Charles. Diving to a Flash of Gold.
Port Salerno, Florida: Florida Classics Library, 1971.
Weller, Bob. Salvaging Spanish Sunken Treasure. Lake Worth,
Florida: Crossed Anchors Salvage
Weller, Bob. Galleon Alley- The 1733 Spanish Treasure Fleet. Lake
Worth, Florida: Crossed Anchors Salvage. 2001.
Wings of
Adventure: The Skies of Rhinebeck
By Mike Olafson
A great looking Nieuport 11! Behind it, the tailfin of a
German Albatros D.Va, and behind that, the nose of a Spad VIII peeking out.
Have you ever wondered what it was like to fly in a real bi-plane? Have you ever
dreamed of seeing a real WWI era fighter plane in flight? Well, lucky for you, you can
experience these dreams and more at Cole Palen's Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome, in Rhinebeck,
New York. (www.oldrhinebeck.org)
Our film crew recently experienced the excitement and energy at the aerodrome while
shooting material for an episode of our series for TV/DVD. After experiencing the
beauty of the rolling hills of the Hudson Valley, we were even more excited when we found
the picturesque fields of the Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome, quaintly nestled away in the lush
forests and farmland of the New York countryside. The land is very reminiscent of the farmland often pictured in the
background when barnstormers and fighter pilots took to the skies during the early years
of aviation.
I must say, as a lover of aviation and history it was a once in a lifetime thrill to see
so many classic planes not only in person, but to see them actually flying as
well. The picture above is just one small sample of the many planes that are
featured in both the museum and flying air show. It is a Nieuport 11, sometimes
referred to as a “bebe”. This particular one is wearing the colors of a
fighter flown by Victor Chapman, an American who volunteered before the USA was involved
in the war. He flew in the legendary Lafayette Escadrille, a rugged band of
volunteer American pilots. Sadly, he was the first American aviator to lose his life
in combat. Taking off shortly after two other pilots, he soon found them embroiled in
combat with a squadron of Fokkers and came to their rescue. They were able to
escape, but he was not so lucky. As if that was not enough in the spirit of
sacrifice, the main reason he was flying that day was to deliver oranges to help his
wounded friend who lay in the hospital. This is just one intriguing story in
the annals of aviation history- many more stories are presented through the engaging
experiences of the aerodrome.
The aerodrome was started by a visionary named Cole Palen. In
1951, after serving in WWII as an infantryman and later becoming an aviation mechanic, he
acquired six planes from the Roosevelt Field Museum Collection. This is when
his collection began. In 1958 he purchased a small swath of bumpy, stump ridden
farmland in the area just outside of Rhinebeck, NY. After years of painstaking work
to clear out a small airfield, he set to the task of actually flying these classic planes,
and found that people enjoyed seeing them fly too. In the mid 1960’s, the shows
began to gain momentum and continued to grow in popularity. Through it all, Cole
Palen served as the heart and soul of the aerodrome, not only helping those less fortunate
learn about aviation and participate in the activities, but also championing the lure of
aviation and that indomitable spirit of the wild blue yonder. Older spectators could
now more easily remember the times they saw these planes flying more frequently. Younger
spectators? Well, they held a special place for Cole, and he felt it so important to
impart upon them the excitement of aviation- not always from textbooks, but also from
first hand experience. During my visit, I found 2nd and 3rd
generations of spectators who told me their parents brought them, and they were now
showing their own children. Cole Palen passed away in 1993, but not without leaving
a truly lasting legacy of education, appreciation, and active participation in the world
of aviation history.
My visit was thrilling- starting with tours through the museum I saw
many planes from the early stage of aviation history- such as a 1911 Bleriot! The plane pictured below is a flying version of an earlier, 1909 model.
During the air show I was spellbound to see this 1909 Bleriot pictured above actually FLY!
There were also many planes from the WWI era as well as planes
spanning into the Lindberg era of flight. Just to see these planes might be enough
to offer for the average museum- but there is definitely nothing average about the Old
Rhinebeck Aerodrome. A short stroll from the museum to the airfield and one
can find more classic planes being wheeled out of their hangers, cleaned and prepped for
their upcoming flights. The mechanics, pilots and volunteers all pitch in and do
whatever necessary to get the show flying. Before the air show, visitors can also
sneak a peek into the model plane museum to see hundreds of flying model planes- many of
which Cole built himself. (and yes- kids can touch! No surprise here!) Also, visitors can see many antique autos and
even a WWI era tank which actually functions and is used in one of the shows!
Additionally, a fashion show rounds out the experience of “being there”.
Perhaps most exciting, is the opportunity visitors have to actually fly in a 1929 New
Standard Bi-Plane and see the beautiful countryside surrounding Rhinebeck and the nearby
Catskill mountains. What a beautiful site! Throughout the day, before and
after the air show, people were voyaging up into the skies for their own
memorable aviation experience. In fact, one young man proposed to his bride-to-be in the plane while we were there!
The air show itself was quite exciting. On Saturday, the theme
was the history of aviation, and it featured many planes from the pioneer age of
flight. On Sunday, the theme was WWI and the show was centered around the romance of
Sir Percy Goodfellow and Trudy Truelove, and the dastardly interference of the Black Baron
of Rhinebeck, (flying a Fokker tri-plane- what else?) along with his
“evil” cohorts. While the plot and special effects were entertaining, the
airplanes they flew really stole the show. Fokkers, Jennys, Nieuports, Spads,.. the
list goes on.
Volunteers and Pilots both help wheel out this
classic Curtiss JN-4H, affectionately known as a "Jenny".
On both Saturday and Sunday, after the show, spectators can approach
the planes and pilots, clad in costumes of the era, as they are lined up and are present
to answer questions, laugh with the kids, and educate the enthusiastic crowds. One
can even experience the smell of the planes! ( It’s very hard to describe, but
it’s a pleasant combination of leather, oil, and metal.) It must have
been what air shows of the 1920s felt like. Pilots were talking, kids were playing
with model airplanes and staring up into the mighty engines, and parents were like kids
themselves-amazed with wonder. Smiles were everywhere.
The staff at the Aerodrome was also wonderful. I was
amazed at the number of volunteers who have made a commitment to be there and help the
cause. Without them, the air show could not go on. Their only reward is the
experiences they gather in working so close to the planes and pilots. Their work is
truly appreciated. Many pilots started as volunteers themselves, and so the cycle
continues. All in all, it was a wonderful time. For more information, be
sure to read the upcoming issue of Vintage Adventure- free to members- or wait
until our video episode is produced and available for viewing on cable television or
directly on DVD.
Seeing these planes streak triumphantly through the skies, still
flying after all these years, is a testament to the designers and engineers who built
them, the men who flew them, (in many cases they were one and the same) as well as the men
and women who risked their lives in them while in combat or world
exploration. There is something magical about flight, something
transcending. Flight, for mankind, started with a jumble
of wood, wires, canvas and machinery. Inside garages and hangers
around the world, designers and mechanics worked on their creations and saw their ideas
slowly take shape in a sort of mechanical cocoon.
Patiently learning from their setbacks upon setbacks, a string of successful tests
gradually emerged, and with perseverance, patience, and courage, the dream was
realized, and man could fly. The act of flying, magnificent as it may be, is
however, just one more example of man looking up to the heavens, and asking, “What is
out there? What lies beyond? What are we capable of?” Indeed, 100 years
ago, flight began. 100 years from now, where will we be? Regardless, we should
be so lucky that the planes of Rhinebeck are still flying even then, and that generations
of families will have been able to appreciate the selfless acts of not only the men who
originally designed these planes and flew them, but also the work of Cole Palen, and of
the men and women of the Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome, for continuing the tradition of
realizing one’s dream, and being generous enough to share it with the world.
The Quest for La
Caverna Del Oro
By Mike Olafson
The faded Maltese cross can still be seen!
Many legends persist of lost Spanish treasure and ancient mines in
Southern Colorado, but perhaps one of the more interesting accounts is that of La Caverna
Del Oro.
The recent expedition by Vintage Adventure to the supposed location
of this cave of legend proved quite a fascinating piece of research, exploration, and
adventure.
La Caverna Del Oro, according to various sources, has quite a
history. The cave was discovered in 1869 by Elisha P. Horn, (with a name like that
you’re bound to discover something) who noted a faded Maltese cross cut into the side
of the cliff above the entrance to the cave. Upon closer inspection, he found the
remains of a skeleton still wearing Spanish armor! He noticed that the arrows that
had killed this person were still lodged in the skeleton. The location was in
the Crestone needles area, and there are many caves known in that area, sometimes referred
to as the Spanish Caves, or the Marble Caves. 
The crevice where we determined the cave opening must
be.
In 1919, a forest ranger named Paul Gilbert spoke to a 105 year old
woman of either Native American or Mexican heritage, and she told of stories she had heard
as a child of an old mine in which Spaniards had enslaved the Native Americans and forced them to mine the cave for gold.
She explained that the Native Americans
had eventually rebelled and pushed the Spaniards away, forcing them to store their gold
deep within the cave- but not before first marking it with a Maltese cross cut into the
stone by the entrance. Eventually a new expedition was launched by Mr. Gilbert, and
another by a former member of the state historical society, LeRoy Hafen- both to the
location given by the old women. They did in fact find the cave and it did have the
Maltese cross above the opening. Their expeditions both continued to explore deeper,
but in 1932 a new team of explorers Peter Moser, Victor Donald, and Jack Barth, all from
Denver, are reported to have made an interesting discovery at 350-400 feet in a side
passage of the cave: a human skeleton chained to the wall by its neck!
Eventually, the most qualified and equipped team of spelunkers, The
Colorado Grotto of the National Speological Society conducted the most thorough
explorations in the 1950s and in 1960 discovered new tunnels to explore. To this
date, the entire depths of the cave are still unknown. If there have
been new discoveries, they have yet to be announced publicly.
There is also an account of a possible entrance 1000’ below the
cave entrance, hidden in the ruins of the mine’s mission. There have been
reports of debris and structure-like ruins there, but no sign yet of the hidden
entrance. That is, until another story later surfaced in the
1960s about a local man who spent much time in the area exploring the caves.
He did not want his name released, but he reportedly discovered, in one of the caves, an
ancient wheelbarrow. He believed that there was no way it could have been
transported deep inside the cave to that location through any known opening, therefore,
the ancient hidden entrance must exist somewhere. He also claims to have found
trails worn smooth in some of the rocks around what may have been the ancient
entrance. To this day, if it has been found, it has not been reported.
With this abundance of history and mystery, we set out to find this
cave of legend ourselves. Our resources were imperative, and helped us identify the
range and the actual crevice where the cave was believed to be. This report
was written using these sources as well. These books and maps are still available in
most any bookstore.
1. Treasure Tales of the Rockies, by Perry Eberhart,
Copyright 1969
2. Lost Treasures on the Old Spanish Trail, by George A. Thompson.
Copyright 1999
3. Sangre de Cristo Range Map, by National Geographic.
4. Colorado Atlas and Gazetteer, by DeLorme. Copyright 1998
Also, though we did not utilize them, The Colorado Grotto of the
National Speological Society may also have more information available. Also, for the
person interested in becoming more proficient in caving, here are some links of interest:
www.desertusa.com/mag99/feb/stories/caving.html
www.cavediggers.com/html/links.html
We won’t reveal how we found the cave. Fortunately there
are no signs whatsoever that say “La Caverna Del Oro”. There is one sign
that points to the “Marble Caves”, but it appears deep into the route, and does not identify La Caverna Del
Oro. So, the amateur adventurer can still get a sense of the unknown- some
discoveries are more fun when you can figure it out for yourself! Using the
materials above, you should be able to identify the location, and gain a sense of
satisfaction in the process.
The trail to the cave we believe is La Caverna Del Oro.
Was this the beginning of an ancient route Conquistadors used to transport shipments
of gold back to Spain?
We will say however, that the journey involves a good four-wheel drive trail, then
a hearty hike up to about 12,000 feet. Though the trail is well marked, until
the end- then it’s up to you to use logic and find out where the cave could be.
We found the cave! (I am crouching in front of the
entrance for scale.) Notice the Maltese cross just above my hat, slightly to the right. Is
this La Caverna Del Oro?
It took us two days to get there- the first day, we had to turn
back due to bad weather, and we did not give ourselves enough time. The second day,
we made it back down the mountain just as nightfall had begun, so it was a full day
adventure. From what we can tell, this certainly seems to be the actual
location of the legendary cave, but we cannot be certain. Perhaps there are other
caves with the same Maltese cross still evident, hidden by evergreens or moss, still
waiting to be discovered. For more details and our complete report, look for more in our upcoming magazine. (free to
members)
A great view from the entrance of the cave! Its a
long way back to Spain......
We enjoyed our adventure, and someday will return to search for other caves in the area
and try to identify the mysterious hidden entrance. For now, the secrets of La
Caverna Del Oro continue to be safe from the rest of the world. I can’t help
but wonder if, somewhere at the bottom of the cave, there is the skeleton of an ancient
Conquistador still in his armor, guarding the gold and waiting for his officers and
soldiers to return en masse and escort the last shipment of gold back to
Spain.
Note of Caution:
If you do find the cave however, we advise that you DO NOT
ENTER. The cave has a sudden drop off inside which is hard to see in the darkness,
and as always, spelunking is best done in the company of others, and with professionals or
highly skilled and trained spelunkers. We do NOT recommend you go inside the
cave. Also, while there, please respect the site so others may enjoy it. Take
pictures, have lunch, (and clean up of course) enjoy the clean mountain air, and the
beautiful view and think about the stories this old cave could tell. The
Maltese cross has already been vandalized and is fading enough from erosion and time.
Please be considerate of this important and delicate piece of history.
Petroglyphs
of the High Plains: Secrets in Stone
By Connor Hughes
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